All You Need To Know About Control Gel Application

ABOUT CONTROL GEL

Control Gel is an LED/UV gel that is made up of a proprietary blend of ingredients that make Control Gel unique. Control Gel is fast and easy to use in that it cures on command, is lightly self-levelling, and is soft and pliable upon application which makes it easy to control. Control Gel is very lightweight and odourless and when filing, it produces less airborne dust than acrylics and traditional hard gels. With practice Control Gel has the potential to be a time saver because of the ease of use. An estimated 25-30 sets of nails can be created with each tube.

CONTROL GEL CHEMISTRY

ibd Control Gels, like acrylics, are plastic polymers that are made up of molecules that repeat themselves in a chain. When the molecules polymerize or link up (cross-link) they form longer chains of the molecule. When the molecules polymerize, they become a plastic. LED & UV gels use light energy in curing with photo-initiators and LED & UV lights rather than heat energy to polymerize.

There is a chemical catalyst in the powder that makes the powder and liquid polymerize (cure) when they are mixed together. The monomer is the component in acrylic that evaporates and creates an odour. All ibd gels, including Control Gel, are similar in their chemistry differing mainly in colour, pigment, and consistency. LED & UV gels contain an oligomer, acrylic ester monomer, photo-initiator, and in some formulas, pigments. The oligomer and monomer in the gel polymerize cure, or become plastic when the photo-
initiator is exposed to LED or UV light. The photo-initiator performs the same function as the chemical catalyst in acrylic. ibd Control Gel does not contain formaldehyde or
toluene for increased adhesion.

When gels cure under LED or UV light, oxygen inhibits the curing of the gel surface, leaving a tacky residue. This is called the inhibition layer and can be removed using
various ibd Gel Cleansers. Control Gel produces a very light inhibition layer.

OLIGOMER: The oligomer (a partially polymerized polymer or a few molecules of gel already linked together) is the backbone of the gel that determines its strength, toughness, flexibility, shine, and scratch-resistance. The oligomer used in ibd gel is highly cross-linked making it tougher and harder with more shine.

MONOMER: The monomer affects the cure time, shine, and application characteristics of the gel. Some monomers can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. ibd gels have a
non-irritating ethyl based monomer that also contributes to the shine. Monomer, along with silica and acrylic esters, is used to adjust the viscosity of each gel.

PHOTO-INITIATOR: The photo-initiator performs the same function as the chemical catalyst in acrylic. The photoinitiator used in ibd gel is very efficient and reacts with the
lower viscosity gels to eliminate spiking or heat.

Odour: ibd gels are odour free due to the ethyl reaction having already taken place during the mixing development phase.

YELLOWING: ibd gels do not yellow and have a low percentage of photoinitiators. Yellowing is usually caused by a high percentage of photo-initiator.

SHINE: ibd gels that are properly applied have a brilliant and long-lasting shine. Most chemicals, even acetone, will not dull gels.

SKIN IRRITATION: ibd gels are not formulated with ingredients that tend to cause allergic reactions or skin irritation, such as acids or related chemicals.

SHELF LIFE: ibd gels are chemically stable with a shelf life of 3 years. Store ibd gels away from direct sunlight and LED/UV lamps.

PREP

  1. Sanitize your hands and the client’s hands using ibd Nail Prep.
  2. Gently push back the eponychium and remove excess tissue from the nail plate.
  3. File the free edge.
  4. Remove the shine from the nail plate using an Emerald 180-grit file.
  5. Apply Dehydrate to all nails.

Note: If building extensions or applying tips, follow the procedures for form or tip application. If doing a natural nail overlay, skip to the “Bonder” step.

APPLY FORMS OR TIPS

Forms

  • Remove the form from the paper and place the tab on back for reinforcement if desired.
  • Apply form ensuring that there is no gap between the form and the natural nail.
  • Secure the form by matching and sticking the tabs together to ensure a perfect c-curve.

Tips

  • Size a tip to each finger and pre-blend the well with an Emerald 180- grit file.
  • Apply a small amount of 5 Second Nail Glue into the well of the nail tip and hold the tip in place on the nail for 5 seconds.
  • Cut the tip to the desired length and blend to the natural nail with an Emerald 180-grit file. Continue to file the entire surface of the nail tip to remove the shine.

BONDER

PowerBond

Apply PowerBond sparingly to the natural nail surface from cuticle to free edge. No need to cure.

APPLICATION – ONE-COLOR

  1. Pour a small amount of Control Solution into a clean dappen dish.
  2. Select desired Control Gel shade and squeeze the tube to release the product.
  3. Slice off the desired amount with the ibd Spatula and roll the product onto the nail.
  4. Dip the Control Gel Brush into the Control Solution, remove any excess liquid by pressing the brush onto the side of the Tappan dish then blot on a clean, dry Nail Wipe.
  5. Create the nail by pressing the Control Gel toward the cuticle area first, continuing along the sidewalls, and finish with the free edge. Be sure to avoid getting the product on the skin. Reload the brush with Control Solution if needed.
  6. Once the desired shape is achieved, on one hand, cure for 1 minute under LED, 2 minutes under UV.
  7. Repeat Steps 2-6 on the other hand. Note: If using nail forms, you can remove them after curing and turn the hand to cure the underside of the nails. 1 minute under LED, 2 minutes under UV.
  8. Cleanse the nails using your choice of ibd cleanser and a Nail Wipe to remove the inhibition layer.
  9. File and shape the nails with the Emerald 180-grit file.
  10. Remove the filing dust from the nail with a clean, dry Nail Wipe.

Note: You have many options when finishing a Control Gel manicure, see below:

Finishing with Intense Seal

  • Apply a thin coat of Intense Seal from cuticle area to free edge. Be sure to cap the free edge and avoid contact with the skin. If you do get a product on the skin,
    be sure to remove it prior to curing. Do this on 5 nails and cure for 30 seconds under LED or 3 minutes under UV.
  • Repeat the above step on the other hand and finish by applying ibd Lavender Cuticle Oil to all cuticles.

Finishing with Gel Polish

  • Apply 2 coats gel polish colour directly to filed surface of the nail from cuticle area to free edge. Be sure to cap the free edge. Cure between coats and finish with gel
    polish top coat.
  • Finish by applying ibd Lavender Cuticle Oil to all cuticles.

Finishing with Nail Lacquer

  1. Buff the nails using a Diamond 220-280 grit buffer or seal the filed surface with Intense Seal.
  2. Apply 2 coats of nail lacquer and finish with top coat.
  3. Let nails dry and carefully apply ibd Lavender Cuticle
    Oil.

APPLICATION TIPS

Do not overuse the Control Solution. Overuse can make the product too soft and inhibit the amount of control the user has. It may also cause the nail to crack because it may affect the consistency of the product. You will need to work with this product using more
pressure than hard gel application for better adhesion.

CONTROL GEL TROUBLESHOOTING

  • Control Gel is sticking to the brush – This may happen particularly with our white Control Gel, make sure to keep the brush moist with Control Solution but not overly wet for better working.
  • Nails are cracking – Make sure you build enough apex for strength. Pressing too heavily on the sides can thin out the stress area, which can lead to cracking.
  • Nails are lifting
    1. Make sure you follow the complete prep steps and ensure that there is no debris or tissue left on the nail plate.
    2. Make sure to apply bonder sparingly, too much bonder can cause nails to lift.
    3. Apply two coats of Dehydrator on problem clients.
    4. Be sure that your application is thin and flush to the natural nail around the entire perimeter.
    5. Make sure there is no product touching the skin surrounding the nail.

FILLS

Control Gel can be filled just like hard gel or acrylic and just like any nail enhancement we recommend your clients come back for bi-weekly fills. Regular maintenance ensures
less breakdown and provides the client with strong, durable enhancements for as long as they desire.

  1. File down old product as much as possible with a Ruby 100-grit file or e-file with a coarse sanding band leaving a medium to thin layer of Control Gel. Be careful not to
    file on the natural nail.
  2. Prep the nails as usual (follow the “Prep” steps above) but apply Dehydrator only on the natural nail.
  3. When applying PowerBond or LED/UV Bonder, apply it to the natural nail only.
  4. Proceed with the Control Gel application, modifying the amount you slice off and place on the nail closer to
    the new growth area.

REMOVAL PROCESS

  1. Control Gel is the same as a hard gel in that it will need to be filed off. Begin with an ibd Ruby 100-grit file or e-file with a coarse sanding band to remove the bulk of
    the product then switch to an Emerald 180-grit file as you get closer to the natural nail.
  2. Make sure not to file into the natural nail, when you see that you’re getting close to filing the natural nail, switch to the Diamond Buffer 220/280-grit to buff the nail to a
    smooth surface.
  3. Proceed with a new nail service or finish with ibd Lavender Cuticle Oil.

APPLICATION – TRADITIONAL PINK AND WHITES (FRENCH
MANICURE) Follow the Prep, Form Application, and Bonder
Steps above.

    1. Pour a small amount of Control Solution into a clean dappen dish.
    2. Select desired Control Gel shades in pink and white.
    3. To ensure even curing use a small amount of Clear Control Gel to build out a very thin layer of the nail extension slightly overlapping the natural free edge and extending down the form to the desired length and shape.
    4. Next, with the pink shade of your choice, squeeze the tube to release the product. Slice off the desired amount with the ibd Spatula and roll the product onto the nail.
    5. Dip the Control Gel Brush into the Control Solution, remove any excess liquid by pressing the brush against the side of the dappen dish then blot on a clean, dry Nail Wipe.
    6. Create the nail bed portion of the nail by pressing the desired shade of pink Control Gel toward the cuticle area first, continuing along the sidewalls, and then extend toward the free edge to create a reverse smile line at the point desired. You can follow along with the natural smile line or create an extended nail bed if you desire. Be sure not to get the product on the skin. Reload the brush with Control Solution if needed.
    7. Create the smile line by pressing the brush against the product to form the desired shape of the smile line and a ledge with which you will press the white up to.
    8. Once the desired shape is achieved on one hand, cure for 1 minute under LED or 2 minutes under UV.
    9. Repeat Steps 3-7 on the other hand.
    10. If desired you can refine the smile line on all nails to get them as even as possible with an Emerald 180-grit file. Cleanse the nail with your choice of ibd cleanser and a Nail Wipe prior to filing and remove dust with a clean, dry Nail Wipe before applying the additional product.
    11. Using your choice of white, squeeze the tube to release the product. Slice off the desired amount with the ibd Spatula and roll the product onto the free edge of the nail.
    12. Dip the Control Gel Brush into the Control Solution, remove any excess liquid by pressing the brush against the side of the dappen dish then blot on a clean, dry Nail Wipe.
    13. Create the free edge by pressing the Control Gel up to the smile line and continue pressing the product over to the sidewalls and to the desired length and free edge shape. (don’t worry if the white overlaps onto the pink, you will file this off later.)
    14. Once the desired shape is achieved on one hand, cure for 1 minute in an LED lamp or 2 minutes under a UV lamp.
    15. Repeat Steps 10-13 on the other hand.
    16. Remove the forms from all nails.
    17. Turn hands over and cure the underside of the nails for 1 minute under LED and 2 minutes under UV.
    18. Cleanse the nails using an ibd Nail Wipe and ibd Cleanser of your choice. File and shape the nails with the Emerald 180-grit file.
    19. Remove the dust from the nails with a clean, dry Nail Wipe.

 

Finishing with Intense Seal

  1. Apply a thin coat of Intense Seal from cuticle area to free edge. Be sure to cap the free edge and avoid contact with the skin. If product gets on the skin be sure to remove it prior to curing. Do this on 5 nails and cure for 30 seconds under LED or 3 minutes under UV.
  2. Repeat the above step on the other hand and finish by applying ibd Lavender Cuticle Oil to all cuticles.

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